As promised, here’s a comparison of the new Closet Core Pattern Mile End Sweatshirt and the new Helen’s Closet Jackson Pullover, with a sneaky little Cashmerette thrown in too. Sewing these over the last month has been a pleasure – my favourite kind of easy knit sewing and cosy cheerful fabric to boot!
(Disclaimer: I have pattern tested for all three companies. I pattern tested the Cashmerette Tobin years ago, was sent the HC Jackson for free with no requirement to make or share, and bought the CCP sweatshirt myself. All opinions are my own, which you know if you’ve been here before!)
Up first, the Helen’s Closet Jackson.
Jackson is a gender-inclusive design for a classic sweatshirt. It has slightly dropped shoulders and is finished with fabric/ribbing bands at neck, cuff and hem. I sewed a size 22 according to the size chart recommendations, and the fit is great. This top feels like a hug – no drafts coming in anywhere, and enough volume to feel cozy and unconfined.
I made two versions of this pattern, which is a sneaky hint that it’s my favourite! Both fabrics are a tight, slightly stiff cotton French terry. You can find the floral here and the dots here. I used ribbing on the floral and the same French Terry in a coordinating print for the dots. Both worked well.
Looking at the photos I can see that I could probably shorten the shirt at least an inch, since it bags out over the band… but honestly, it’s comfy, and I love that I can raise my arms without pulling up the hem.
Next up, the second pattern I sewed, while I was waiting for the delayed release of the Mile End Sweatshirt!
This is an unreleased tester version of the Cashmerette Tobin, which I previously sewed here without mentioning the pattern! The final version had darts added, and from the side photo you can see why. I probably should have sewn the darted version, but I was feeling like keeping it casual. (Isn’t it nice to see pattern companies who take the testing process seriously and make changes based on the process?)
This is that same French Terry fabric, in a now-sold-out print that coordinates with the dots. I love the colours in this print: mustard, denim, mint, terra cotta and pale pink. I could very happily wear a wardrobe in this palette!
This pattern is an interesting comparison to the others because it is one step less casual. It has shoulder seams that sit at the shoulder, and I finished the sleeves and hem by turning and stitching. I have previously used a facing at the neckline too, but I always love how a stripe looks in a folded band so that’s what I did. If you favour a trim look witht he feel of a sweatshirt, then I think this pattern would be the winner for you.
And finally, though the pattern release was delayed by Canadian Customs for several weeks, here is the Closet Core Mile End Sweatshirt!
This is modern take on a sweatshirt, with a slightly cropped length, side seams that angle forward, and a bubble-shaped sleeve. I was planning to use my dotted French Terry for this pattern, but as I prepared the pattern I got worried that the stuff fabric just wouldn’t work. I used a rayon/poly blend French Terry instead, and now that I’m done… I’m thinking that a classic thick sweatshirt fabric might have handled the volume better?
I sewed a size 20 in the d-cup range, according the the size chart. As you can see, the shoulder are more dropped than the Helen’s Closet pattern, and the sleeves have a lot of volume. I chose the drapey fabric specifically because I though it would balance how oversized the pattern is, but in the end all the detail in the sleeves is lost in folds of fabric. There is a curved seam along the top of the sleeve, and two darts on the front inner elbow.
See the darts? I took a bunch of pictures trying to show them, and then as I was editing I couldn’t figure out why I had so many arm-up shots and nearly deleted them all! That’s how invisible the drafting details are in the this print and fabric.
You’ve probably figured out that this is my least favourite of the four shirts. It’s partly the fabric, partly the cropped and drafty length, and partly the proportions overall. On the other hand, Closet Core has released many patterns before that I wasn’t sure about at first, and two years later I caught up to the trends, so never say never. If I made it again I would size down and add some length.
So there we have it! Three styles of sweatshirt, from fitted to boxy. If you are considering these patterns, remember that I’m 5’2″, and didn’t adjust the length on any of the patterns. My current measurements are 46″, 41″, 52″. Personally what I’ve realised is that my key criteria for a sweatshirt is: “Will it let drafts up my stomach?” I mentioned that to my husband, who wears hoodies daily, and he said he has never considered that… so if you run warm like him, your choices might be different than mine! Which would would you choose for yourself?