Hi! Remember when I went though my trouser phase in July, and posted about my Closet Case Patterns Sasha trousers? Well, it started all kinds of fascinating discussions about plus-size fit, the lack of examples of what good fit looks like on plus-size women, and which wrinkles are unavoidable. Now I’m back with modified Sashas, and I’d love you to help me figure out what adjustment to try next!
Lucky for me, there is lots of knowledge out there on the internet. @DogwoodDenim offered all kinds of insights in a series of stories, and since she designs custom denim for a living, I’m all ears!
Her suggestion that resonated the most is illustrated above: If you want to have a smooth leg with no wrinkles, the fabric needs to fall straight from the butt to the calf. I’ve highlighted the curve of my legs in green, and you can see that my back and side profile is literally curvy… so when I sew slim pants that fit my thigh and calf snuggly, I end up with quite a lot of wrinkles! Interesting, eh? I’ve never seem this talked about before, but makes sense to me.
So, for this latest pair in what-I-thought-was-olive-but-turned-out-to-be-brown, I straightened out the side seams from the apex of the hip to the calf. In some places this just added 1/2″, but in other areas it was adding a fair bit of fabric! The end result is… good? Slightly better? When I first tried them on I thought, “Yeah, that’s an improvement!” but now that I compare them in pictures it seems pretty subtle. Hmm.
I’ve got fabric ready to make a black pair, but I’d like your suggestions first: What to change next? If I drop the back crotch curve lower, will that help the front/back balance, and alleviate some of the underbutt pulling? Should I make the top looser? Should I address my knock knees?
A few extra details:
- I did sew the butt/belly of the pants with a large seam allowance because I thought the last pairs were a bit loose… but then I remembered that it was just the elastic that was loose last time.
- I listened to the sage advice of Debbie Cook and stretched my elastic out before measuring it… and she was right, it really makes a difference!
- This twill has 4-way stretch, which might be affecting fit.
- To be clear, I will be wearing these quite happily, as I have been with my teal and blue pairs.
Please let me know what you think! Read those wrinkles!!!!