Welcome to Seamstress Erin’s newest pattern, the Ultraviolet Tee! It’s a boxy kimono tee, with either a straight regular-length hem or a sassy cropped curved hem. Erin sent me the pattern when I shared photos of this nubbly silk knit I bought recently, and suggested they might be a great match. Voila – a shape and fabric totally outside my comfort zone, but in a colour that is 100% me!
I’ve been friends with Erin online for years now, but I think this might be the first time I’ve sewn one of her patterns. I’m totally impressed! It’s all really well thought through, with clear information on sizing, design and construction options, and fit adjustments.
In addition, the pattern comes with the following options:
- Knit or woven. The sleeves for knits are more tightly fitted, and the sleeves for wovens are looser. I used the woven sleeve because my knit doesn’t have much vertical stretch.
- Bust shaping. There are two separate front pattern pieces – one for people size A-C, without bust shaping, and one for people size D-F, with a dart! If you fall in the larger cup size range, Erin gives instructions for either sewing the dart or gathering the extra fullness at the side seam, which would work great in a thin knit! My fabric is pretty substantial, so I chose to sew a dart. It ended up quite low on me, so I’d suggest checking that distance before you sew.
- Hem. As I mentioned before, there is a straight or curved hem option. The hem is so dramatically curved that it’s sewn up before the side seams – I actually really enjoyed starting at the hem instead of the shoulders for once!
- Pocket. There’s a wee patch pocket included in the options… and I appreciate that there is a small pocket for smaller sizes, and a larger pocket to keep the same visual proportions on the larger sizes.
(Did I mention there is a curvy woman rocking the cropped version on the front of the pattern? It’s such a simple thing, but I adore when designers include a variety of figures in illustrations. Helen’s Closet is great for that too!)
Can we talked about cropped tops? I’ve never been a fan – I mean, exposing my abdomen? No thank you! I kinda love that black lace tie-up crop top I made to wear with my Winslow Culottes though, and now I’m totally digging this! I couldn’t wear this to work, but for summer, it feels fresh and fun. I like that even when my arms are raised, my centre front and back are covered… and if I channel Heather from Closet Case Files, I feel quite flirty in high-rise jeans and a cropped boxy top!
The fabric and style seemed so bright and fun that i decided the insides needed to be equally fabulous. I almost like it best inside out, as above! I used striped rayon jersey to finished the neckline and hem. I cut 1″ stripes, and serged the right sides together along the edge… then flipped them inside and topstitched. Easy peasy, and the perfect solution for fabric like this that doesn’t have good recovery! I also used fluorescent green thread on the inside of my coverstitching. (You can also see where I had to patch the back together, because I didn’t have quite enough fabric!) It’s an 80’s-inspired party inside my shirt!
Forgive this blown-out blurry photo – photographing hot pink is *hard*!
Btw… go take a look at my first ever garment when I returned to sewing in my 20’s – a hot pink silk noil Sorbetto, with black Echino covered buttons! I bought that pink fabric when I was in highschool… and there’s no denying the two tops are really similar! Guess my personal style really doesn’t change all that much!
I did make a few fit changes as I sewed. I took up the shoulders 1″, and narrowed the sleeves 2″, because it wasn’t looking as cropped as I expected. (#shortgirlproblems) Next time I think I’ll size down and that should improve the fit all over.
The fabric is really quite odd. It’s the same weight and texture as silk noil, but a knit. I got it for $7/m on a sale rack at Fabricland – my guess is it came from a collection at least a few years ago, because I’ve never seen it at another store! It has the funky earthy smell that you assured me on IG is normal-ish for silk… the scent too me right back to that Sorbetto tank. The fabric is quite dense, almost like a french terry weight, with the nubbly texture of noil. Definitely a casual silk, not a fancy one! I’ve got .7m of a fluorescent green colour as well, which might become a tank at some point.
Erin sent me the pattern, but there was no expectation to blog… but I enjoyed sewing it and am excited to wear it, so I wanted to share!