As you can tell from the fall foliage, it’s been a while since I tested the Cashmerette Dartmouth top! It’s a good addition to Jenny’s line-up, and I’m happy to finally be able to talk about it!
Dartmouth is a knit fixed cross-over top. I sewed the version with ruching at the sides, but there is also a version with a flat front. I know my fabric choice hides all the details, so I’ll try to walk you through them.
Neckline: Finished with a band. The easing of a shorter band onto a longer neckline keeps the neckline snug. I wear a camisole underneath when I wear it to work.
Hem: The back and two front hems are all finished seperately, them the sides seams are sewn up last. Scratch that! Jenny says the final version is hemmed all in one go at the end!
Ruching: I found the instructions very clear and straightforward. Only the outer layer is ruched, so there is minimal extra bulk.
Sleeves: In my tester version, the long sleeve turned out shorter than I expected. If you have long arms, do check the sleeves length before you cut. The shoulders fit just right.
Fabric: I used a light rayon knit with poor elasticity. The result is a more relaxed fit that I prefer. If you choose something snappy like cotton lycra, you will get a snugger shirt – or you could up a size. I think it all depends on your figure and how you like your clothes to fit! There is no ruching in the back, so a tight fit will mean your bra line etc may show.
Sizing: The tester version ran small (which Jenny figured out before I sewed mine, so I adjusted accordingly), but the sizing has now been adjusted to be in line with the fit of her other patterns. I generally find I sew exactly the same size in any pattern she makes, and I appreciate that consistency!
Personally, it’s a little outside my fashion comfort-zone, although I’ve worn it a handful of times. There are two layers of fabric over the belly, and thats an area where I try not to add volume. I’m so used to wearing loose shirts that something close-cut makes me feel a bit exposed. That’s completely personal though – if this is a style of top you like, then this pattern does it well! On me, the back hem rides up, and that makes it feel front-heavy. If I make myself one again, I’ll slash and spread over the bum. I plan to pass this top on to my sister, and I bet she’ll look fabulous in it.
Don’t mind my unsmiling photos though – I was apparently channeling a pensive look. It doesn’t mean I don’t like this top! I had *just* finished sewing it and ran outside to get some pictures as the sun set. Someone give me a snack, stat! (And a haircut! Oi vey!)
I hope that helps you decide if this is the pattern for you! Do you like wearing faux wrap tops?
I love it- don’t pass it on woman, wear it!
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If it didn’t ride up in the back, I’d keep it. I just can’t live with that!
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safety pin it to your knickers lol
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I understand it being outside your comfort zone (90% of clothing feels that way on me, including tops like this–I’d change out of it into a t-shirt in less than five minutes!), but you look really, really great in it. The fit and the color–the fit is not too tight and it is very flattering. That’s a beautiful color on you.
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Isn’t it funny how definite most of us are about what is or isn’t our style? And I think it’s really all about the feel… I don’t like feeling like I have to tug it down in back, and make sure it’s decent in the front, and wonder if the front is adding volume… it’s far too much thinking for a knit shirt! 😉 I did buy some camisoles though, and that helps… and my next version, with a few adjustments, I’m sure I’ll like!
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The top looks so fabulous on you. That is just a part of sewing, getting to try out patterns outside of your comfort zone and making them work for you.
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Absolutely! It’s one of the things I like about testing Jenny’s patterns – I know they’ll fit, so I can experiment with styles and not feel like all will be wasted!
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Looks smashing on you! FYI the instructions changed a bit too and it no longer has you hen separately and then do the side seams – instead it’s a traditional hem, after the side seams.
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Thanks for the heads up! i’ll update that in the post. 🙂
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My Dartmouth is on its way to me 🙂 I love your top Gillian! It’s encouraged me actually – I was doubtful because it’s not a style I normally wear either but Cashmerette always fit me so well I figured this was my chance to try something different for me. Like you said you can always play a bit with the hip to make it a looser fit or lengthen it to a tunic 🙂
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I hope you make a tunic version! It’ll be right up your alley then!
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Oh my, that top looks great on you! I was hoping to see this top on you and there you have it. I bought the pattern today and I am excited to try it. I already have the fabric ready, bought it in autumn and I have been waiting for the right pattern. My fabric is multicoloured and flowery and I think it needed something extra, so it won’t look like a nigthgown. Nice to know your opinion, maybe I need to size up, I hate when bras can be seen and too much curves also. I loved your lace dress also. It seemed easy to wear yet elegant!
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That fabric sounds lovely! You can definitely consider sizing up, but it will affect the wrap a bit… the front needs some tension to stay in place. I think in a patterned fabric, just go for your size and don’t worry too much about the back! (Unless you have bootie, like me, in which case, add room for the butt!)
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OK – this is totally my kind of top and I think it looks fantastic on you. Try to put it in your comfort zone and make a bunch of them!
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When this year is over and you are back to sewing, you’ve got to try this pattern! Right up your alley. (I’ll make you one and mail it if you want! But I think less than perfectly tweaked fit might not work for you…) I hope the move is not too horrific!
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That is the sweetest offer ever. I may take you up on that though I am so tricky, fit wise, that it would be putting you to lots of work for an outcome that might not fit. Thank you so much though.xo 🙂 The move went about as well as possible but was still bizarrely hard. Now I’m avoiding unpacking (which is basically just as nasty as packing FYI). It’s easier to be lazy with the unpacking cuz there’s no hard date for exit. But seriously, you have to unpack or you can’t do anything.
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Love the top and fabric, but I’m not big on the doubled front fabric either. (Out of curiosity, why?) BUT, that last photo rocks! Not accusatory, but “What the bleep are you up to?” Mama/teacher look. Spot on! (Or is that the “It’s bleeping cold out, when is the sun going down?” look?)
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Why is the fabric doubled? The only options I can think of would be for a) the wrap to be sewn down, but then it wouldn’t drape as nicely, or b) the underlayer to be cut away. I don’t like that style of top though, because I always fear the underlayer will ride up/down, and skin will show where the two layers meet!
Hehehe – as for the look – I think that’s definitely a soft version of my teacher glare! ;P
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That makes sense now! (I’ve never made a wrap around dress before either, and I imagine this would be a secure way to do that. I am sensitive to this issue… When I was in 5th grade my wrap around skirt fell off while walking home from school. Yikes!) Are you a teacher? I’m a retired one, and “the look” still comes in handy!
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Lovely top, the colour looks great on you. I’m totally the same with extra fabric, I made the Coppelia and really like it but lots of extra fabric isn’t a great look from the side view.
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It’s funny that mere millimetres of extra depth on our body can feel bulky, isn’t it? Glad I’m not the only one though! 😉
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Really liking that pattern, How lucky to be a pattern tester! I know totally what you mean when a garment just doesn’t work for you. I found i’ve stopped forcing red on myself in the same way. Other people like it on me, but I just don’t get it. I’m sure your sister will love this one and you can stitch up another for yourself without the riding up at the back! (Those fall colours in the background are amazing btw! )
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Funny you say that – as I packed away my winter clothes, it included ever single red thing I own, and I thought, “Good riddance! I’m back to wearing hot pink now!”
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I really like this look on you. Of course if it just doesn’t feel right….well your sis is a lucky gal because of it!
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I think it looks great!! I totally get the exposed belly thing though, that’s an area I always try to conceal too. I think this is really pretty on you!
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