No matter the brand, I always run into the same problem with jeans: When I sit, the back rise gets pulled down by my sizeable booty, and the front waistband cuts in to compensate. Then when I stand up, I have to grab the waistband and pull everything back into place!
Usually I sew my own jeans, but sometimes it’s nice to get the instant gratification of just buying them. I bought these recently, and I like the colour, fabric and overall fit, but the back rise was driving me nuts. Here’s my simple solution, which took less than 45 minutes!
- Good jeans that fit but need more rise in the back
- “Donor” jeans that are a similar colour and stretch, in any size (I got mine at the thrift store)
- Seam ripper, sewing machine and thread the right colour for your topstitching
1. Start with your good jeans. Try them on and get an idea how much height you would like to add to the back rise.
2. Unpick the back waistband of your good jeans. I stopped and started unpicking about 1″ in front of the side seams. (The stitching is usually chain-stitched, so cut one stitch and then you should be able to pull on the thread and it will magically undo all along the seam!)
3. Now it’s time to get fabric from your donor jeans. Cut them into “Daisy Dukes” mini-shorts, and use a stripe several inches wide from the tops of the thighs where the leg is widest. (You could use one of the existing side seams as the central seam of your new extended yoke, or if you are working with smaller-sized donor jeans like mine, seam stripes from both legs together to get a longer length.)
4. Compare your strip of donor denim to your good jeans, and cut it to fit the length and width.
5. Sew the donor strip to the good jeans, right sides together, making sure to align the vertical seams at the centre back of the yoke. Zigzag or serge your seam allowance so the new denim doesn’t fray. Iron the seam allowance downwards, and topstitch to make it “match” the existing seaming.
6. Pin your waistband on to the extended yoke, easing them together. The waistband should sandwich the raw edge of the yoke.
7. Topstitch the waistband onto the newly extended yoke.
8. Use a narrow zigzag with short stitch length to reattach the belt loops.
9. Try on your awesome, newly-improved jeans! On me, you can see that the new yoke is visible up close, but less obvious from a distance. I always wear shirts that come down at least to the top of my back pockets, so very few people will ever have a chance to notice.
I’m happy to report that these jeans are much more comfortable now. I don’t have to aggressively pull them up after every time I move, and the front of the waistband doesn’t dig as hard into my stomach when I sit. Hurray! In the past I’ve also tried adding darts to jeans (perfect if it’s just a back gaping issue) and adding a denim-covered elastic band all the way around the top (good when you need more rise everywhere). I’m happy to have another alteration in my repertoire!
What fit issue do you have most with RTW pants? Have you figured out a way to fix it?