It’s cosy dress season again! I spend half the winter in mini-dresses and leggings, so I snapped up Sew Over It’s new Heather dress when it was released. It’s an easy-fitting (but not baggy) knit dress with cute curved pockets set into princess seams. I, of course, made it in a print that obscures all of those details!
I sewed up a size 18 bust graded to size 20 at the waist and hips. I did make a few changes in advance and on the fly:
- I took out an inch above the waist as a petite adjustment
- I shortened the hem at least 5″… possible more, and possible too much! It’s *just* on the short side for work! (But I’ll still wear it!) I also made the back a smidge longer for butt coverage.
- I top-stitched the princess seams with my coverstitch, which was a little awkward around the pocket. I like how the topstitching keeps the curved seams neat and flat.
- The shoulders were clearly a bit wide as I sewed it up, so I trimmed .5″ off the shoulder apex, blending to nothing mid-armscye… but I should have narrowed it properly at the princess seam, because the sleeves sit just a bit off my shoulders
One thing worth noting… the seam allowance is 5/8″, which I find awkwardly wide for a knit. I would have much preferred a 3/8″ seam allowance. There are some parts around the pocket that I think you really have to sew on a sewing machine… the rest I serged.
This pattern offers size 8-20, which is an intriguing size range to me. Why no smaller sizes? (Is a UK 8 like a US2?) My waist and hips fit into the largest size, which is bad news for larger people… but I think the sizing runs a bit big, so this dress is worth a try even if you are a few inches outside the largest size. The Sew Over It Shift Dress is one of my TNT patterns, and I find both dresses fit me well without any bust adjustments.
And now for something different… I’ve noticed in writing my last few posts that too many of my pictures have been “hand on hip”, so I challenged myself to do some poses with my weight balanced equally on both legs, and my hands anywhere but on my hip… which, I’ll be honest, felt super awkward! Behold:
Uh, yeah. There’s a reason for the classic hand-on-hip!
So… Did you notice anything *familiar* about my fabric? It’s the same print as I used in a recent post! I’m hoping the grey/red is different enough from the camel/blue colourway that no one notices… but really, why should it matter? I actually have quite a few garments made from identical prints… at least 3 things in the same leopard knit, a dress and top in Art Gallery knit, and so on. Usually it’s a summer and a winter garment, so they won’t be worn back-to-back… but these will, and I’ve decided that’s fine.
How do you feel about repeating the same fabric more than once in your wardrobe? It it a no-no, a “who cares?” or a secret you try to keep?
Cute dress! I use the same prints as often as possible if I have enough fabric, and I love it. For instance, I have three tops made in a very distinctive digital zebra print that I adore! Posing without hand on hip is horribly difficult- try props! I find it much easier when I’m larking about for my steampunk poses, as I usually have a walking stick or hat or parasol to play with. Grab a bag, you’ll feel more ‘normal’
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Just what I was going to say about the pics! I fall into the same habit and find having something to keep my hands busy helps. I don’t feel so awkward while the photos are being taken either.
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I need some props!!! Quick, someone get me a… um… crap, I don’t know what to use as a prop!
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A handbag, a kid, a cat, a bowl and spoon, a stack of books, a Gandalf pipe…have fun with it. 🙂
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A walking stick or parasol sounds SO FUN to take pictures with! It would make taking pictures in front of my house next-level weird though – “Who’s that lady with the parasol taking pictures of herself again?” Actually, that sounds rather fun… In for a penny, in for a pound!
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I’ll look forward to you doing a Mary Poppins impression in your next batch of photos! Good old hand-on-hip will never be the same again.
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I’m so impressed by your ability to alter the pattern and end up with a gorgeous outfit. Nicely done!
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Thank you! I didn’t change much so this one was easy! 😉
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lovely print! in terms of sizes, a UK 8 is a US 4. UK 8-20 is pretty much the standard RTW size range (actually it often stops at a 16 or 18). So in US sizes it is 4-16.
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Thank you for explaining that! That makes sense – i’d usually be a 16 or 18 here.
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I love your new dress and would have bought the pattern for SURE if it wasn’t a PDF. I’m worried that pretty soon that’s all indie pattern companies will be producing which means those of us who are PDF averse will have to return to the big 4. I really love your pattern as always Gillian and thank you for that idea re topstitching with your coverstitch! I’m considered it for a few things but just wasn’t confident it would turn out as well.
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It odd, but over the years I’ve totally come around to PDFs. I love being able to cut my size without tracing, and know I always can print it out again. To each their own though! 🙂
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I have several things made out of the same fabric/print. I am of the opinion people who don’t sew are not as observant as those who do. People with whom I work think I’m nuts when I say ‘cool seam lines’.
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Hahahaha a- that’s funny and totally true. I spent this morning eyeing the cool sweater a presenter was wearing at our meeting… I’m sure everyone else thought more about what we were supposed to be learning! 😛
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That dress is on my maybe list. But there was a similar dress in an issue of Ottobre that has been keeping me from just buying it. It looks really good on you and I love the short length!
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I agree, there are similar patterns out there – if you have one, use it! 🙂 Because giant pockets are the best!
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Love the print. If I like a fabric I’ll use it over and over. If I like a pattern I’ll use it over and over, and often do!
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A woman after my own heart!
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Nice dress! When I first saw the pics I was a bit ‘meh’, but the details are just lovely! (I’m not a fan of big prints…)
I’m definitely pro-garments in the same fabric. There’s no way I’m not going to use fabric leftover from a project (or have the brains to work out exact fabric requirements for one garment!)
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Ooh I love this. I have been curious about the Heather since I saw it released – seems perfect for semi-casual work wear. Are the pockets spacious/comfortable enough to hold things (your phone) or is it more for casual ‘hands in my pockets’?
As for fabric- I totally have fabrics in my wardrobe more than once, that I way I know for sure I will have something to pair with it haha. I try to mix up the patterns though so it isn’t like too identical items, so a top and a dress or something like that
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The pockets are roomy – I can fit the whole length of my hand in. Something heavy would definitely drag that side down though, so it’s a bit of a toss up if I”ll use them. Probably more stable in a thicker sturdier knit!
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Love the dress. I will make tights, a t-shirt, and long sleeve shirt, etc…if I like the fabric I use it all up.
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Nice dress. I, too, like the print on you and especially love the pockets. Which do you prefer, this dress or the Jasper which also has the princess seam lines?
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Gillian, this is so nice!! Love this colourway of the print too. And I’m the kind of sewist who buys 4-6 yards whenever I see a fabric I like, with no idea what I’m going to make from it. So I’d totally enable you into making multiple things from the same fabric/ print.
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I love your “hands at sides” pose! I like the hand on hip, myself. But I could try props – if I ever get around to blogging again! I love the idea of using the same (or same but different colour way) fabric for different garments. I’ve always loved the coordinates patterns for just that reason!
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Oh, the pockets are brilliant on this dress. I wondered about the sizing too. I just bought a Craftsy class on pattern grading so hopefully I can take on patterns like this one where I fall outside the range offered. You look great in this blue version. It looks really different in the gray. I’m definitely pro wearing the same fabric. Fashion designers do it in a collection which adds cohesiveness and it’s economical. Also, if you have a cool print, it gives you more opportunity to do more things with it.
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Cute dress! Ahh… the posing dilemma. Hand on hip is standard for me but I will usually have a purse with me and I like to try the walking shot sometimes. It doesn’t always work…can be blurry. Your pics always look great though!
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This looks so great on you! I love the Heather Dress – I have been wearing both of mine a ton! I also found the 5/8 sa a bit tricky. I love sewing my knits totally with my serger and that (and the pocket) made it tricky. I wonder if I could size down and sew everything at 1/4″ or 3/8″. Hmmmmm…. I also have a number of the same print different colour, and I don’t mind it. I really doubt people even notice.
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Thank-you for the tips about serging at the pocket! About to make my own and great to read other’s tips!
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