Ta-da! My new comfiest bra, courtesy of my custom-drafted pattern by Emerald Erin.
Of course, it fits me better than it fits my dress form – she’s set to have the same full bust, but my underbust is at least 6″ smaller. You get the idea though!
For my pattern, I chose a three-piece cup, which I’ve sewn up here with a double-layer power bar. It’s quite full coverage, which I like for an everyday bra. At some point, I’d like to work on a plunge or demi cup version for when I want to wear a lower neckline.
I’m still working out my favourite strap style and dimensions. This one was made with a large findings kit from Erin, which I like for the wide band elastic, but I think next time I’ll buy narrower strap elastic. I like my band super snug, so the straps aren’t actually bearing much weight and don’t need to be so substantial!
Check out the vertical “Bliss” wires! They are narrower and more u-shaped than the standard bra wires I’ve been using, and I quite like the front-and-centre effect. It’s not at all a push-up bra style, it just keeps things from migrating under my arms!
The fabric is really what makes the bra, though. It’s a wicking knit which is stable enough to give good support, but has just enough give to allow a natural shape. It’s holy-sh*t-comfortable compared to the duoplex I’ve been using, and doesn’t flatten my upper cup the way duoplex does. I’ll be making a lot of bras in this fabric, including a red version inspired by this bra of Erin’s!
One thing I do notice is that in this fabric, the front bra frame (is that what it’s called?) needed more stabilization. It’s cut with the least stretch going horizontally, which means it does have a bit of vertical stretch… and although the cups went in beautifully, I think the whole thing stretched a bit during sewing. As a result, the wires come perfectly to the top of the cups in centre front, but are almost an inch short of the top under the arms. I’m choosing to think of it as “extra fabric to scoop in underarm tissue” as opposed to “the wires are too short”…since after all, the wires themselves are the same length! It’s just that the bra turned out taller. The wires fit perfectly in my duoplex version, so next time I’ll make sure that I stabilise the frame with another layer of fabric.
Below is the duoplex muslin I sewed as we worked on fit. (Duoplex, if you don’t know, is the kind of super-sturdy, unforgiving fabric that will survive the apocolypse. It will lift and support boobs of any size, but on it’s own it’s a bit utilitarian for my taste!)
Basically, I sewed up the first version of our pattern, and it was too large in the upper cup… Erin redrafted it, and it ended up a bit too small! Version 3 was just right. It was awfully nice not to have to make the tweaks myself – the thing about bra fitting is that there are so many ways you could adjust for each fit issue. (For example, my instinct when the upper cup was too big was to take a vertical wedge out, but her’s was to rotate it out horizontally.)
For each alteration Erin scanned and emailed new pattern pieces as a pdf, and I’d rip out the old cups and put in new ones. As you can see, the sewing is sloppy… but on the up side, I got a lot quicker as slapping a bra together! I don’t use a single pin any more, which is just how I like it. The overall shape in duoplex is more lifted and slightly pointed, compared to the wicking version. I’m going to try sewing it up in bra tulle, and then maybe I’ll to pictures wearing each version under a t-shirt to see if I can capture the difference in shape.
I thoroughly enjoyed working with Erin on this pattern (Ok, she did all the work!). Each version of the pattern lined up effortlessly, and there was never any need to stretch or ease things to make them fit together. (I’m looking at you, Pin Up Girls Classic!) She was a great cheerleader and worked really quickly. If you ever happen to be in southern Ontario, I’d highly recommend her! (And local sewists, what do you say we make a trip to Belleville this summer?)
Crafting A Rainbow 
I’m in awe! What a feat! Also, Belleville, here we come!!
LikeLike
I can’t wait!!!!
LikeLike
Wow, nice work Erin and Gillian. I’ll volunteer to drive to Belleville!
LikeLike
ROADTRIP!!!!! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Amazing experience and beautiful bra! I can’t wait to see your tulle bra. That’s my next one. Belleville trip! 😀 I can’t wait. 😀
LikeLike
Have you sewn your tulle yet? I’m not looking forward to all the layers, though I’m sure it won’t be any worse than sewing lace over duoplex….
LikeLike
Not yet. I plan on sewing a lining with sheer cup lining, though. I haven’t decided how many layers of tulle I want. I guess I will decide when it comes to cutting it out. I think it definitely can’t be worse than lace over duoplex!
LikeLike
I love how this one turned out! 🙂 Fabric can really make SO much difference in a bra. I find that duoplex is great for doing mock-ups and getting your pattern right, but I don’t actually like to wear duoplex bras myself.
Also – I can’t wait for your visit in the summer!! Summer is a great call too- no snow, and then we can find a patio for drinks after class! 🙂
LikeLike
I’ve been wearing my black bra and blue bra pretty much non-stop since I made them! Which clearly means I need to make more to put in the rotation… thanks for working through the fit with me! 🙂
LikeLike
All I can say is, WOW! Jealous!! haha. The more I work on my bra fit, the more I’m like, WTF am I even doing??? I am eagerly awaiting my france underwires though, so there is more fitting in my future!
LikeLike
I can’t wait to see how your France wires turn out!
LikeLike
Those are so pretty! How awesome to have a custom bra pattern!
LikeLike
I”m pretty excited that it all worked out!
LikeLike
I have seen a lot of lovely looking bra’s on the internet but this is one I feel like I want to put it on (if that doesn’t sound wierd). Its got a lovely balance of comfy looking yet stylish.
LikeLike
Hehehe – I’m excited to have a balance of cute and comfy!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks for sharing your experience, Gillian! How empowering to have a custom-fit pattern as a starting point.
LikeLiked by 1 person
At some point I’m excited to alter it into different shapes and styles, but for now, i’m just going to revel in sewing bras that fit!!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
You are so lucky Gillian! Your bras look awesome. I’m stuck right now when it comes to bra making. I’ve watched my Craftsy course and I feel really confident about sewing a bra….but THE FIT. That’s a whole ‘nuther story. I’m just realizing how unique fitting a bra is and I’m at a loss of where to start. It would be one expensive bra to fly to Ontario to see Erin as much as I’d love to, LOL. Unfortunately my favourite bra no longer fits me well so I can’t really use it as a template either. Did you start with the Shelley bra? Or is yours entirely custom?
LikeLike
This one is entirely custom, but Shelley would be a good starting point… I wonder if there is anyone who does custom lingerie out in BC? I know of someone in Calgary – not exactly close, but closer than Ontario! 😉 http://www.mrsweaversfinest.com
LikeLike
Thanks for the tip about Bliss wires. I’ll give them a try. They look like they should work better for full breasts set closely together on a smaller rib cage.
LikeLike
I think the bliss wires would be perfect for that shape! Hope they work for you!
LikeLike
Love the blue colour! It is clear that this bra has a professional quality. I’m more and more convinced that a made-to-measure bra making class would be a good investment.
LikeLike
It was certainly a fun learning experience!!
LikeLike
Thanks for sharing this. I love your blue bra! I would love to dip my toes into bra-making, but it sounds like the best way to avoid lots of frustration is to get a custom fitting or pattern by someone who knows what they’re doing. Any suggestions for those of us who live far from Ontario? (I’m in California.)
LikeLike
I’d try doing a search for local custom bra-makers – I figure anyone who can make you a custom bra could also make you a pattern? Working from a normal bra pattern can work too – there’s a great Facebook group that can help with fitting, IF you are willing to put bra pics online! 😉
LikeLike
Your bra is beautiful. I love that blue. How amazing to have one that is custom-fitted. It is a pity that Canada is so far away. Did you now that there are a lot of tutorials on Foundations Revealed for drafting a bra cup/bra? It is a pay-for site but there are two articles on how to make a bra. The series was great but I don’t have my subscription any more. It would almost be worth flying over to see Erin just to have a bra that actually fits. Xx
LikeLike
Those articles sound interesting! I looked at some info on how to draf for myself, but I just can’t wrap my head around it! Hope you can find or make yourself a pattern that fits!
LikeLike
Looks great! And the custom pattern experience sounds amazing. Lucky you!
LikeLike
I”m pretty excited about it all!
LikeLike
No no Gillian, this is one rabbit hole I cannot go down! Though the more you tempt me with ur luvverley undie wear the more I feel resolve dissolve!! Nice job luv x
LikeLike
It’s a fun rabbit hole, that’s all I can say! 😉
LikeLike
Yeiii Gillian!
How jealous I am to have Erin as a birthday gift! It’s pretty awesome you got her to help you with the alterations and it’s interesting to read how the fabric choices affected your final version.
I’m definitely up for a trip to see Erin.
M
LikeLike
Yay!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Beautiful blue bra and very interesting to read how Erin made the change to the upper cup fullness.
LikeLike
I wish there were more detailed references about bra-fitting online – I feel like there are so many ways to accomplish each change!
LikeLike
Oh my! That blue is really nice! Must be so great to finally have a bra that’s actually fitting as you would want and like it to. And even better, to have your own custom pattern for it! Great work!
LikeLike
I”m really excited that I no longer have to wear bras I want to tear off as soon as I get home! Life is good!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Sounds like a great experience! And very interesting about the fabric, I’ve made a couple of duoplex bras, but am not quite satisfied with the fit… wait, Belleville here we come?
LikeLike
Woohoo, Belleville roadtrip!!!
LikeLike
I love that narrow gore! And the U wires are great. Maybe Erin know where to get all of the good fabrics and notions that actually create a bra that works for the heavier breasts? All the more reason to get my butt to Belleville this summer. Maybe we can convince Andrea to join us. She does live there, after all.
LikeLike
How cool that you could get your bra pattern custom fit like that! And the blue one looks great!
LikeLike
Very cool!! I’m glad you figured out a pattern that works well for you and I love hearing about the different fabrics. I must get on with making more bras! Have you made any with foam cups?
LikeLike
I haven’t tried foam cups yet – but I’m looking forward to it! just waiting til I’m in Hamilton so I can buy the foam without paying shipping…
LikeLike
Gillian, the blue bra is so fun, I love it! It’s awesome that you had an opportunity to work with Erin, I’m a little jealous! 😉
LikeLike