Speaking of what patterns become popular (and thanks for all your long and interesting comments on that post!) this one is SURE to be a hit!
As I’m sure you know, Jen from Grainline released her long-await Morris Blazer pattern this week, and it’s really my dream come true. I’ve been waiting for a knit blazer pattern for years (I tried making Sewaholic’s Cordova, but that didn’t go well.) I was so excited when it turned out that Morris is meant for stretch wovens/heavy knits, and is unlined!!! Yay! A jacket that doesn’t terrify me? I’m in love!
Mine is made from a fairly stretchy polkadot double knit that has been lingering in my stash for a year or so. I’ve got a couple other versions in mind, but I wanted to try it first on a very forgiving fabric. I’m glad I did, because I definitely had some adjustments to make as I sewed!
- First, I probably picked the wrong size shoulders. I really should have gone by high bust and done an FBA! When I first sewed the front and back together, the armscye was sitting 1.5″ too far off my shoulders. I ended up trimming them back. I’d like to add a dart for my next version – I’m hoping the Sewalong can tell me how!
- I graded out to the largest size at the waist and hips, but then it ended up very boxy. I took in the sides, adding more of a curve, and shaped the centre back seam a bit too.
- The “bracelet length” sleeves were full-length on me, so I shortened them about 2″. I kept the length of the blazer as drafted for the largest size, because I don’t like jackets too cropped!
Two other changes I ended up making:
- I made the sleeve facing twice as deep so I could roll the sleeves up for a contrast cuff.
- When i finished it, I couldn’t get the front facing to sit flat, so I sewed it to the blazer. The line of stitching isn’t very noticeable on this fabric and I like not having to worry about the facing flipping around!
Behold, my messy sewing! I serged some seams (sleeves, side seams), but used my sewing machine for most of the construction. It’s been a while since I had to grade seams, clip corners or understitch, so I’m looking forward to the sewalong to see how I could do it better. The pattern pieces all fit very nicely together though, which made it really easy to put together!
All in all, I’m happy that it turned out so wearable. It’s going to make getting dressed during my “wear American” week of MMM so much easier!
Are you planning a Morris blazer yourself? And can you suggest tutorials for how to add a bust dart in a dartless pattern? My google skills are failing me on this one. Thanks!
Ps. Two things I forgot to mention! I did a horrible job easing the sleeves – they aren’t supposed to be puffed like mine. Ooops! Also, even in the largest size, I cut it out of 160cm of 60″ wide ponte! Way less than the package suggested. Woot!