Speaking of what patterns become popular (and thanks for all your long and interesting comments on that post!) this one is SURE to be a hit!
As I’m sure you know, Jen from Grainline released her long-await Morris Blazer pattern this week, and it’s really my dream come true. I’ve been waiting for a knit blazer pattern for years (I tried making Sewaholic’s Cordova, but that didn’t go well.) I was so excited when it turned out that Morris is meant for stretch wovens/heavy knits, and is unlined!!! Yay! A jacket that doesn’t terrify me? I’m in love!
Mine is made from a fairly stretchy polkadot double knit that has been lingering in my stash for a year or so. I’ve got a couple other versions in mind, but I wanted to try it first on a very forgiving fabric. I’m glad I did, because I definitely had some adjustments to make as I sewed!
- First, I probably picked the wrong size shoulders. I really should have gone by high bust and done an FBA! When I first sewed the front and back together, the armscye was sitting 1.5″ too far off my shoulders. I ended up trimming them back. I’d like to add a dart for my next version – I’m hoping the Sewalong can tell me how!
- I graded out to the largest size at the waist and hips, but then it ended up very boxy. I took in the sides, adding more of a curve, and shaped the centre back seam a bit too.
- The “bracelet length” sleeves were full-length on me, so I shortened them about 2″. I kept the length of the blazer as drafted for the largest size, because I don’t like jackets too cropped!
Two other changes I ended up making:
- I made the sleeve facing twice as deep so I could roll the sleeves up for a contrast cuff.
- When i finished it, I couldn’t get the front facing to sit flat, so I sewed it to the blazer. The line of stitching isn’t very noticeable on this fabric and I like not having to worry about the facing flipping around!
Behold, my messy sewing! I serged some seams (sleeves, side seams), but used my sewing machine for most of the construction. It’s been a while since I had to grade seams, clip corners or understitch, so I’m looking forward to the sewalong to see how I could do it better. The pattern pieces all fit very nicely together though, which made it really easy to put together!
All in all, I’m happy that it turned out so wearable. It’s going to make getting dressed during my “wear American” week of MMM so much easier!
Are you planning a Morris blazer yourself? And can you suggest tutorials for how to add a bust dart in a dartless pattern? My google skills are failing me on this one. Thanks!
Ps. Two things I forgot to mention! I did a horrible job easing the sleeves – they aren’t supposed to be puffed like mine. Ooops! Also, even in the largest size, I cut it out of 160cm of 60″ wide ponte! Way less than the package suggested. Woot!
Crafting A Rainbow 
It looks great! Glad you got the printer sorted. Thanks for the fitting pointers too, I’m hoping to avoid a toile but my chosen fabric was quite expensive so I’m hoping I can fine-tune as I go. Definitely going to grade down at the shoulders but I may add a bit of length as I’m not sure about cropped on me either. I think I saw a tute to add a dart on Cashmerette or the CSC blog?
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I hope your version is going well! I found it pretty easy to adjust as I went, so I’m sure you will too! 🙂
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Looks awesome, love the spotty knit!
I ended up adding an armhole dart on mine (thought I could get away without an fba but it was so dragliney). Lazy stitching has a tutorial on adding a dart (she rotates hers out to a gathers but you could stop just with the dart)
http://www.lazystitching.com/2010/11/full-bust-adjustment-gathered-bodice/
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Thank you – I’ll check out that tutorial! I miss Lazy Stitching – she always made great stuff!
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Looks great and I love the spotty knit!
I ended up adding an armhole dart, thought I could get away without a fba but it was dragline city!
Lazy stitching has a tutorial on adding a fba to a dart less bodice, she rotates it out to gathers but you can stop just with the side dart
http://www.lazystitching.com/2010/11/full-bust-adjustment-gathered-bodice/
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Sharp! I love knit blazers and other non-sporty knit jackets. All the comfort of a sweater with the sleek lines of a tailored jacket. The contrast you added on the cuffs is really nice, and you’ve handled all of the edges so crisply. I will never, ever make all the jackets in my lifetime that I would like to! There’s always another fabulous one around the corner. This is one of those!
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This is my first jacket, but I could see how it would be addictive!
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So, so cute!! Love the polka dot fabric. This looks like it’ll get a lot of wear, can’t wait to make my own!
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I think you’ll like the pattern a lot! I was worried that all the facings would be tricky to line up nicely, but every point matched up. Yay for good drafting!
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This is Super Cute! I’m still messing around with my 2nd muslin of the Morris – not quite there yet. Made me feel better that you said the shoulders were way too wide on you – that is something I’m dealing with – trying to fix them without making the sleeves look weird. (I’ve got a lot to learn about fitting and need more patience.)
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I’m glad I”m not the only one who found the shoulders wide, too! I was actually worried they’d be narrow… but better too much fabric than not enough! 🙂
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I giggled when I read your sleeves were wrist length. I must have monkey arms! Mine were soooo short, about three inches off my wrist finished! I’m wearing mine at work today 🙂
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Hehehe – if you have monkey arms, then I must have t-rex arms! 😉
Are you going to sew another Morris right away, or move on to something else?
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I think two is enough for now… although I wore the black stripe one to work & it’s tempting to make another plain one in a knit as they feel like a cardigan but look smart enough for the office.
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The knit comfort factor is pretty great! I’ve got some thicker, very resilient ponte to try it in at some point, and I’m curious how that will turn out!
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You source the BEST knit fabrics! I love the polka dots. You did a great job and your blazer looks fantastic!
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Fabricland!!!! (Oh, and I’m itching to come shop at the big Hamilton fabricland in the next week or two – would you like to meet up, if you happen to be free?)
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This is so cute on you! What a great idea to extend the sleeve facing when the other side of your fabric is so cool! Clever!
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Thanks! I wore it out last night over a sweater and dress, and it was nice to have a cute me-made outer layer. I could see why you are into the jacket-making!
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Your blazer looks really smart- love the fabric!
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Thank you! I’m intimidated by jackets, but this was such an easy place to start!
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This looks great! Love the polka-dot. I’m planning a Morris soon. It’s so helpful to read about the changes you made. Shoulders are often too wide on me, so I’ll keep an eye out for that.
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Enjoy sewing your own version! Other than choosing the wrong size for the shoulders, everything was pretty easy!
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Love it! I wasn’t going to buy this pattern as I was after a more traditional blazer, but this version might have sold me 🙂 Jennifer Lauren Vintage has a really good FBA where you do the usual adjustment (which adds the dart) but then rotate it out. My mind was struggling to work out how it worked, but I followed it step by step and it worked!
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Oh cool! I’ll check out that tute. My version is pretty casual, but the versions Jen showed in stretch woven look pretty sharp! You might like it!
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Whoa, fast! Love this blazer on you. Definitely a great style!
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Thank you! It was so easy to sew!
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Morris looks FANTASTIC on you! I think the fit here already looks really good, and I love the dots you chose. Seems like your blazer could go with pretty much anything!
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Thank you! The fit is a bit off, but the polkadots hide it well. I think a little adjustment will make the next version perfect! 🙂
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I didn’t manage to comment on your last post, but what I would have said totally applies here – I sew and love all grainline patterns, in part because Jen always looks so cool and maybe if I sew her patterns I’ll look cool too? It doesn’t quite work that way, though my grainline patterns are my very favorites and by far most worn, but the aspirational quality makes a big difference. I think when you can see the clothes fitting into a lifestyle it makes the designs more accessible. You don’t have to imagine past an awful envelope cover.
All this to say that the morris blazer is amazing and your version is amazing and I too predict a pattern of the year 🙂
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She does have great style, doesn’t she?
You should try Morris – it’s great! 🙂
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It does look like a great pattern! Though I think that for me, I’d have to either shorten the sleeves to 3/4 length or do them full length. Since I’m used to having to add an inch or two to sleeves anyway to accommodate my long arms, bracelet length drives me nuts and makes me feel like I always have to be tugging them down! The polka dots are really fun, and I bet it’ll go with a ton of things in your wardrobe!
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I’m with you on not liking bracelet length… it just feels ill-fitting! I pretty much wear 3/4 length tops all year anyway, or push sleeves up!
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I can´t believe you made this already, it looks great on you! I loved your fabric! I have this black ponte on my stash that I was saving for a Victoria Blazer, but I think I am changing my mind , I want to sew Morris first…
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A black ponte Morris would be great! And since it’s designed to be unlined, it might be easier to sew in a knit than a Victoria? You’d have to fudge that one a bit I think to make the lapels work…
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I’ve been tempted by the Morris, making it out of this lovely bright pink scuba knit I have. I wonder if I actually NEED a bright pink blazer, however. Plus, there is the need for the bust adjustment you’re wanting to make as well.
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YES YOU NEED A BRIGHT PINK BLAZER!!!! Hells yes. Definitely. Make it so!
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Oooooo love this!!! I’ve also been looking for an unlined jacket/blazer suitable for a stretch woven or a stable knit and this one pretty much fits the bill exactly. Love the dot fabric you chose!
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I feel like if you made a Morris in khaki green knit you could layer it with everything ever for MMM!
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This is so cute on you. I love the dotty/stripe mixing. Well done!
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Thank you! My class commented recently on how often i wear polkadots… actually, so did my class last year!
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That’s a really cute jacket. Polka dots! Great fabric choice and it fits really well. Nice pointy front details too. I like this a lot.Xx
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Thank you! i’m really happy it turned out so wearable!
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I need this jacket!!
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You do need one! And it’s so fast to sew. Come on, Marrie! 🙂
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Love it! I really like the design and your fabric choice! I’m hesitating a bit about buying this pattern because it’s a bit boxy as you said, but who am I kidding, i’ll probably buy it anyway somewhere in the next few weeks. I have the perfect stretch fabric in stash 🙂
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It is a little boxy, but not as much as the Victoria blazer was… i’m hoping I can make my next version a little trimmer in the back for a closer fit! 🙂
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This is a fab blazer! I think it really suits you 🙂
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Thank you!
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Ooh, I love this! What a cool idea to make a jacket pattern for knit fabrics! I think I need to try this one as well.
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Knit jackets are the best! I’m surprised this is the first indie pattern for one – I hope more come out, bc I’d sew them all!
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I love this Gillian!! The polka dots are great and it really suits you! I can’t wait to make one for myself – the Grainline obsession continues!
The best way to add a dart is to make up the garment (like you have) and mark where you would want the dart to go and then mark that on your pattern piece, cut and spread it. Does that make sense? This is the tutorial I used for my Archer, (along with the book Fit for Real People): http://www.mesewcrazy.com/2014/02/how-to-add-a-side-dart-for-proper-fit.html
Hope that helps!
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Thank you! I’ll check out that tutorial!
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So. Darn. Cute!!
(Also – I thought all along that I was subscribed to you and that you hadn’t been blogging lately. Oops!! Back on track now!)
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This really is a great looking blazer, Gillian! I really need to try more Indie patterns….. It seems like the perfect pairing of “on trend” and easy sewing…not to mention, flattering! Your polka dots are so perfectly you!
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Like a boss! You look awesome.
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I love this dartless FBA: http://www.mariadenmark.com/2014/06/easy-full-bust-adjustment-fba/
I’ve used it on Grainline Scout and 100 Acts of Sewing Dress No 1 and No 2.
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I love the polka dots/ stripes combination. I also sew this blazer with leather sleeves. It is very easy to sew and looks very stylish.
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Hey Gillian! did you make another Morris Blazer? I really like this. It’s probably beyond my sewing skills, but one day perhaps I’ll try it. . . I’m really liking the idea of sewing exactly what I want rather than shopping around for it. Browsing in clothing stores isn’t so fun with a toddler 🙂
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